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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.